Biancograt on Piz Bernina: Snow-covered mountain peak in warm morning light.

Biancograt on Piz Bernina

Climb the Biancograt with a mountain guide and reach the highest summit in the Eastern Alps via the famous Stairway to Heaven.

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Overview

Difficulty
advanced
Participants
1 participant
Duration
3 days
Best season
June to August
Price
from €1,800 per person
Location
Pontresina, Graubünden

About this tour

This is no ordinary high-alpine tour. It is one of the longest and most beautiful routes I offer in the Eastern Alps and a must for every ambitious mountaineer. With around 1600 vertical metres of ascent, several interesting climbing sections and plenty of mixed terrain that varies depending on the conditions, the ridge presents a genuine challenge. The Biancograt is known as the “Stairway to Heaven” for good reason. Its breathtaking views and technical demands make this tour an unforgettable experience. On the third and final day, we traverse all three summits of Piz Palü—another highlight and the perfect conclusion to the tour. This is an alpine adventure that will challenge you and reward you with incredible experiences.

Photos from the tour

Biancograt on Piz Bernina: Snow-covered mountain peak in warm morning light.
Biancograt on Piz Bernina: Mountaineer in front of a narrow snow ridge.
Biancograt on Piz Bernina: Roped mountaineer on a steep snow ridge.
Biancograt on Piz Bernina: Mountaineer beside the rising sun above the mountains.
Biancograt on Piz Bernina: Mountaineers with headlamps on a rocky approach in darkness.
Biancograt on Piz Bernina: Roped mountaineers ascending a snow-covered glacier.

Itinerary

We meet at the car park in Pontresina and begin our tour with the ascent to the Tschierva Hut. Mountain bikes can be rented in Pontresina for around €20, making the long and relatively flat first section of the approach more enjoyable. The bikes can be returned at the Hotel Restaurant Roseg at the end of the flat section, from where it takes approximately 1.5 hours to reach the hut. The following day, we set off early, as a long and demanding day lies ahead. We first climb towards the Furcula Privilusa across firn slopes and easy rock sections. Climbing at UIAA grades II and III then takes us past the “Shark’s Tooth” and to the beginning of the impressive snow ridge that gives the route its famous character. Depending on the conditions, we may encounter a narrow, exposed firn ridge or sections of climbing on bare ice. After completing this passage, we reach Piz Bianco. The challenge is not over yet: the ascent to Piz Bernina requires further concentrated climbing that is never extremely difficult but remains highly exposed. The descent demands full concentration once again and follows the Spallagrat to the Marco e Rosa Hut. On the third day, we cross the Bellavista Terrace and the Spinas Ridge before traversing all three summits of Piz Palü and returning to the upper station of the Diavolezza cable car. This magnificent tour is the perfect continuation after the Piz Bernina traverse. The Diavolezza cable car and the scenic Rhaetian Railway then take us back to Pontresina, where our journey began.

Requirements

For this tour, you need a good level of fitness for a total tour duration of up to 12 hours.

You should also be able to move confidently through blocky terrain and easy climbing up to UIAA grade III, mostly grade II. Experience and confidence using crampons, including on bare ice and steeper sections, are essential. The ascent from the Tschierva Hut to the summit involves around 1650 vertical metres, and you should allow approximately 9–12 hours to reach the Rifugio Marco e Rosa. If you are unsure whether this tour is suitable for you, we can complete a preparation tour so that I can assess your ability. Possible options include the Wilde Leck East Ridge or the Großvenediger North Ridge.

beginner
intermediate
advanced

Fitness

Technique

Experience

Equipment

You can find all the information about the required equipment in my equipment list for guided high-alpine tours.

Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

Open equipment list (PDF)

Booking and enquiry

Would you like to do this tour with me? Send me a no-obligation request with your preferred date.

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Prices & services

  • 1 participant
    €1,800.00 per person

Included

Planning and guiding by a certified mountain and ski guide
Any required rental equipment

Not included

Accommodation for you and your mountain guide
Any cable car and lift pass costs for you and your mountain guide
The mountain guide’s expenses

Frequently asked questions about this tour

What happens if I need to cancel my tour?

Please note that a tour becomes binding once both parties have confirmed it. In the event of a cancellation at short notice, I reserve the right to charge a percentage of the guiding fee as a cancellation fee. You can find detailed information in my cancellation policy. Payment is usually made by invoice after the tour.

What happens if the weather does not cooperate?

Together, we will find an alternative in another region or postpone the tour. There are no additional costs for you in this case.

Is rental equipment available?

Yes, I can provide the technical equipment you need, such as a climbing harness, helmet, crampons or avalanche safety equipment. The relevant tour description and equipment lists explain exactly what is required and what you may need to bring yourself. If you are unsure what you need, simply get in touch – I will be happy to advise you.

Biancograt on Piz Bernina: Snow-covered mountain peak in warm morning light.

Your way along the Biancograt?

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Unsure?

It is especially important to me that the tour suits you – both your fitness and your experience. If you are unsure, please get in touch! In a short phone call, we can work out together whether this tour is right for you. This gives us the best foundation for a safe and enjoyable mountain experience.

0043 (0) 66475109630

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Mountaineers with headlamps ascending through a snowy mountain landscape.

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