Turnerkamp South Ridge: Roped climber below a large summit boulder.

Turnerkamp South Ridge

Excellent rock climbing on one of Tyrol’s most beautiful mountains.

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Overview

Difficulty
advanced
Participants
1 participant
Duration
2 days
Best season
June to October
Price
from €750 per person
Location
Navis, Zillertaler Alpen

About this tour

The Turnerkamp is one of the most striking and beautiful mountains in the Zillertal Alps, if not in the entire Eastern Alps. Three prominent ridges – the west, east and south ridges – meet at its freestanding summit. Neither the ridges nor the route through the Engländerrinne are easy, which means that the summit is reserved for experienced mountaineers. The south ridge is the longest of the three, offers the best rock quality and is most easily reached from the Alte Chemnitzer Hütte.

The climbing is mainly in the second and third UIAA grades. The key section is a steep slab in the upper fourth grade, which has been made easier by several metal pins. Depending on the conditions, the descent through the Engländerrinne is completed either on firn or by several abseils along an established abseil route.

As your mountain guide, I take care of route-finding, protection and the assessment of the current conditions. Due to the length of the tour, the exposed climbing and the demanding descent, I guide this route exclusively on a one-to-one basis. This allows us to adapt the pace, protection and overall approach precisely to you and complete the tour with the highest possible level of safety and quality.

Photos from the tour

Turnerkamp South Ridge: Roped climber below a large summit boulder.
Turnerkamp South Ridge: Summit cross on a rocky peak beneath a blue sky.
Turnerkamp South Ridge: Following mountaineer on snow-covered rock slabs.
Turnerkamp South Ridge: Ascent across a snowy slope towards a mountain summit.
Turnerkamp South Ridge: Mountaineer wearing a red helmet on a rocky ridge.
Turnerkamp South Ridge: View from a rocky ridge across glaciers and mountain valleys.

Itinerary

On the first day, we travel to the Ahrntal Valley and hike up to the Chemnitzer Hütte together. At the hut, we discuss the itinerary, check the equipment and take a look at the current conditions.

Early the next morning, we set off towards the south ridge. The tour begins with easy scrambling over blocks before the ridge gradually becomes more exposed and demanding. We climb over several smaller towers before reaching the steep key section. This passage has been made easier by several metal pins – without using them, it would be graded around UIAA V.

From the summit, we descend through the Engländerrinne on the western side of the Turnerkamp to the glacier. Depending on the conditions, the descent is completed either on firn or by several abseils along the established abseil route. We then cross the bergschrund and the glacier before returning to the valley via the Chemnitzer Hütte.

Requirements

Depending on the conditions, previous experience with crampons is an advantage. Rock-climbing ability up to UIAA grade IV+ is required, although most of the climbing is around grade III.

For this tour, you need good fitness for a day of up to ten hours and must be able to move safely and efficiently through blocky terrain. Confident rock climbing up to UIAA grade IV is required.

beginner
intermediate
advanced

Fitness

Technique

Experience

Equipment

You can find all the information about the required equipment in my equipment list for guided high-alpine tours.

Please contact me if you have any questions or require rental equipment.

Open equipment list (PDF)

Booking and enquiry

Would you like to do this tour with me? Send me a no-obligation request with your preferred date.

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Prices & services

  • 1 participant
    €750.00 per person

Included

Planning and guiding by a certified mountain and ski guide
Any required rental equipment

Not included

Accommodation for you and your mountain guide
Any cable car and lift pass costs for you and your mountain guide
The mountain guide’s expenses

Frequently asked questions about this tour

What happens if I need to cancel my tour?

Please note that a tour becomes binding once both parties have confirmed it. In the event of a cancellation at short notice, I reserve the right to charge a percentage of the guiding fee as a cancellation fee. You can find detailed information in my cancellation policy. Payment is usually made by invoice after the tour.

What happens if the weather does not cooperate?

Together, we will find an alternative in another region or postpone the tour. There are no additional costs for you in this case.

Is rental equipment available?

Yes, I can provide the technical equipment you need, such as a climbing harness, helmet, crampons or avalanche safety equipment. The relevant tour description and equipment lists explain exactly what is required and what you may need to bring yourself. If you are unsure what you need, simply get in touch – I will be happy to advise you.

Turnerkamp South Ridge: Ascent across a snowy slope towards a mountain summit.

Up the South Ridge of Turnerkamp?

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Unsure?

It is especially important to me that the tour suits you – both your fitness and your experience. If you are unsure, please get in touch! In a short phone call, we can work out together whether this tour is right for you. This gives us the best foundation for a safe and enjoyable mountain experience.

0043 (0) 66475109630

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Mountaineers with headlamps ascending through a snowy mountain landscape.

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