Climber on the exposed ridge just below the summit of the Zsigmondyspitze, with mountain lakes far below in the cirque.

Zsigmondyspitze – Mountaineering in the Zillertal

The Zsigmondyspitze – the “Matterhorn of the Zillertal” – offers varied climbing in breathtaking scenery.

Overview

Duration:: 1–2 days
Group size:: 1–2 participants
Best season:: July to September
Location:: Ginzling, Zillertal
Difficulty:: beginner

from €370 per person

About this tour

At around 3,090 metres, the Zsigmondyspitze rises in the heart of the Zillertal Alps. The ascent via the normal route through the west face offers climbing on excellent rock, with the hardest moves at UIAA grade III. The tour is ideal for beginners who want to experience a relatively easy alpine tour with plenty of rock climbing in breathtaking surroundings.

The starting point is the Berliner Hütte, one of the most beautiful huts in the Alps, or Ginzling at the head of the Zillertal valley. Built in 1879 by the Berlin section of the German Alpine Club, the hut is a listed historic building. Very fit mountaineers can also do the tour as a day trip from the valley with the help of an e-bike, although this makes it considerably more demanding overall.

Photos from the tour

Alpenglow over the glaciers of the Zillertal Alps as we set off from the Berliner Hütte.

Approach at dawn on the path above the Berliner Hütte, with glaciated peaks in the background.

The turquoise Lake Schwarzsee on the way to the Zsigmondyspitze.

Mountaineer crossing rocky terrain on the way to the start of the climb on the Zsigmondyspitze.

The striking rock pyramid of the Zsigmondyspitze above the boulder field.

The Zsigmondyspitze seen from below, with mountaineers crossing the boulder field towards the start of the climb.

Guest putting on his climbing harness at the start of the climb on the Zsigmondyspitze.

Roped climbing on solid rock on the Zsigmondyspitze, with further rope teams following behind.

Guest climbing on the rope, seen from above on the steep face of the Zsigmondyspitze.

Climbing on solid rock just below the summit of the Zsigmondyspitze.

Mountain guide and guest on the summit of the Zsigmondyspitze, with the Zillertal mountains behind.

View from the path down to the Berliner Hütte in the Zemmgrund valley, with the glaciers of the Zillertal Alps above.

Evening light over the glaciers of the Zillertal Alps, with a red-and-white trail marker in the foreground.

Itinerary

We meet in the evening at the Berliner Hütte, where we have dinner together and go through everything for the following day. In the morning we set off from the hut on a beautifully laid-out, gently rising path towards Lake Schwarzsee. Passing this picturesque mountain lake, we follow the hiking trail towards the Melkerscharte. Shortly before reaching the Melkerscharte, we turn right and continue over boulders or firn to the Feldscharte, where the climb begins.

After a short break, we start climbing. At first we climb up the right-hand edge of the face – exposed, but never difficult. This is followed by a beautiful traverse to the left along a broad ledge before we climb back right up a ramp to the ridge. The last three pitches to the summit are the finest of the whole tour: easy climbing in the lower third grade on wonderfully solid rock. From the summit of the Zsigmondyspitze we enjoy superb views of many prominent peaks of the Zillertal Alps, such as the Schwarzenstein, Turnerkamp, Großer Löffler and Möseler.

We descend along the ascent route by abseiling, lowering and downclimbing, and then hike back down together to the Berliner Hütte or to the valley.

Requirements

For this tour, you need a good basic level of fitness for a long day in the mountains and should be sure-footed, even on pathless terrain.

Previous climbing or alpine experience is an advantage but not essential.

beginner

intermediate

advanced

Fitness

Technique

Experience

Equipment

If you don’t have your own, I can provide the climbing equipment you need, i.e. a helmet and harness. For everything else you need for the tour, please refer to my equipment list for guided alpine tours or rock climbing tours. Climbing shoes are not needed for this tour. Depending on snow and conditions, light mountain boots or approach shoes are the right choice.

Open equipment list (PDF)

Booking & enquiry

Would you like to do this tour on your own or with your own group of up to 2 people? Send me a no-obligation request with your preferred date.

Request this tour

Prices & services

1 participant
€620.00 per person
2 participants
€370.00 per person
€740.00 total

Included

Planning and guiding by a certified mountain and ski guide
Any required rental equipment

Not included

Accommodation at the hut
E-bike, if required
The mountain guide’s expenses

Unsure whether this tour suits you?

It is especially important to me that the tour suits you – both your fitness and your experience. If you are unsure, please get in touch! In a short phone call, we can work out together whether this tour is right for you. This gives us the best foundation for a safe and enjoyable mountain experience.

0043 (0) 66475109630

What happens if the weather does not cooperate?

Together, we will find an alternative in another region or postpone the tour. There are no additional costs for you in this case.

Is rental equipment available?

Yes, I can provide the technical equipment you need, such as a climbing harness, helmet, crampons or avalanche safety equipment. The relevant tour description and equipment lists explain exactly what is required and what you may need to bring yourself. If you are unsure what you need, simply get in touch – I will be happy to advise you.

Climb the Zsigmondyspitze with me?

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Mountaineers with headlamps ascending through a snowy mountain landscape.

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