Three climbers with helmets and crampons at the summit cross of the Rubihorn after climbing the north face.

Rubihorn North Face – Classic Route

The perfect introduction to winter mountaineering and mixed climbing – for experienced mountaineers and climbers.

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Overview

Difficulty
intermediate
Participants
1–2 participants
Duration
1 day
Best season
December to March
Price
from €350 per person
Location
Oberstdorf, Allgäu

About this tour

The north face of the Rubihorn, near Oberstdorf, is an impressive landmark in both summer and winter and can be seen from far away. In summer, the rock quality leaves much to be desired for traditional alpine climbing. In winter, however, with cold temperatures and the right conditions, the face transforms into a fantastic playground for climbing with ice axes and crampons.

Several routes lead through the 400 m high face. On the right-hand side, you'll find the classic "Rubihorn North Face" route, with difficulties up to M3 – roughly comparable to UIAA grade III rock climbing in summer.

The route is incredibly varied and, in good conditions, offers just about everything a winter climber could wish for: steep snow slopes, short vertical rock sections, climbing on frozen grass and short sections of ice.

The relatively short approach of approximately 1.5 hours and the straightforward descent allow us to fully concentrate on the climbing itself and the experience of winter mountaineering.

The route is well suited for guided climbing and can comfortably be climbed as a team of three. In suitable conditions, the route involves comparatively low objective hazards. Of course, the current avalanche and weather conditions must always be taken into account.

Photos from the tour

Three climbers with helmets and crampons at the summit cross of the Rubihorn after climbing the north face.
Two climbers with headlamps on a snowy ridge at dawn, with the lights of the valley below.
The snow-covered Rubihorn above a mountain forest in the Allgäu Alps on a cloudy winter day.
View from the snowy base of the wall up into the rocky Rubihorn north face.
Two roped climbers in a snowfield below the north face, with forest and valley in the background.
Climbers with headlamps approaching across a snowfield below the Rubihorn north face in the dark.
View from the belay of a climber following up steep, snowy terrain on the north face.
Climber with helmet and rope on a rock ledge in the Rubihorn north face, facing snowy peaks of the Allgäu Alps.

Itinerary

We meet at the "Gaisalpe" car park in Reichenbach, a village near Oberstdorf. The exact meeting time will be arranged individually during the planning process.

From there, we begin our approach to the face. Initially, we follow an easy gravel road, then pass through a gorge and continue along a forest road. The final 300 vertical metres lead off-trail, depending on snow conditions, over scree or snow to the base of the wall and the start of the route.

Once there, we rope up and, if necessary, go over the plan and the route ahead once more.

The first pitches follow ramps and short steps until we reach a short, steep, chimney-like corner. This is the first crux of the route. The climbing is straightforward and enjoyable, with plenty of opportunities to securely hook or jam the ice tools into cracks, while the rock also provides good footholds for crampons.

Three more pitches follow, alternating between easier snow-covered walking terrain and short, easy rock sections.

Another pitch of M3 mixed climbing (approximately UIAA grade III to III+ in summer) brings us to the central snowfield. After climbing up this snowfield, two more pitches of varied climbing on rock, frozen grass and short sections of water ice await us – and then we've already overcome the main difficulties of the route.

From here, approximately 150 vertical metres of snow-covered terrain, with slopes of up to 45°, lead to the summit of the Rubihorn. At the top, we're rewarded with fantastic views of the Allgäu Alps.

The descent follows a mostly snow-free trail on the southern side of the mountain, passing Lake Gaisalpsee before returning to our starting point.

Requirements

For this tour, you should have a good level of general fitness, be sure-footed, have previous climbing experience and feel confident moving with crampons.You should have some experience in rock climbing or alpine mountaineering. Previous ice climbing experience on frozen waterfalls or mixed climbing experience is not required.
beginner
intermediate
advanced

Fitness

Technique

Experience

Equipment

I can provide you with ice tools and suitable crampons for the tour. For everything else, please refer to my equipment list for guided ice climbing or alpine mountaineering tours.

Of course, we'll discuss all the necessary equipment together before the tour.

Booking and enquiry

Would you like to do this tour on your own or with your own group of up to 2 people? Send me a no-obligation request with your preferred date.

Request this tour

Prices & services

  • 1 participant
    €600.00 per person
  • 2 participants
    €350.00 per person

Included

Planning and guiding by a certified IFMGA mountain and ski guide
Rental equipment, if required

Not included

Individual accommodation costs for you and your mountain guide
Any cable car or lift ticket costs for you and your mountain guide
Additional expenses incurred by the mountain guide

Frequently asked questions about this tour

What happens if I need to cancel my tour?

Please note that a tour becomes binding once both parties have confirmed it. In the event of a cancellation at short notice, I reserve the right to charge a percentage of the guiding fee as a cancellation fee. You can find detailed information in my cancellation policy. Payment is usually made by invoice after the tour.

What happens if the weather does not cooperate?

Together, we will find an alternative in another region or postpone the tour. There are no additional costs for you in this case.

Is rental equipment available?

Yes, I can provide the technical equipment you need, such as a climbing harness, helmet, crampons or avalanche safety equipment. The relevant tour description and equipment lists explain exactly what is required and what you may need to bring yourself. If you are unsure what you need, simply get in touch – I will be happy to advise you.

Two climbers with headlamps on a snowy ridge at dawn, with the lights of the valley below.

Ready for a little adventure on the Rubihorn North Face?

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Unsure?

It is especially important to me that the tour suits you – both your fitness and your experience. If you are unsure, please get in touch! In a short phone call, we can work out together whether this tour is right for you. This gives us the best foundation for a safe and enjoyable mountain experience.

0043 (0) 66475109630

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Mountaineers with headlamps ascending through a snowy mountain landscape.

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